48 Hours in New Orleans

August 14, 2017

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Jackson Square, New Orleans. Image via Flickr Creative Commons, by Daniel X. O’Neil.

If you were to describe New Orleans as a woman, you’d most likely say she is exquisitely beautiful but slightly past her prime; someone clearly experienced in the ways of the world and possessed of a certain come-hither decadence who is not to be underestimated. There’s a sense of the exotic about her and an ever-present threat – or promise – of trickery permeates her French Quarter’s narrow streets and shuttered Creole cottages. She dances down Frenchmen Street to the brassy beat of street musicians, panhandlers and yard spinners, all with smiles as bright as the sun.

More than a decade after the storm to end all storms, the city has morphed into something else entirely. It has survived and thrived. Coming here, you’ll feel as though adventure is happening all around you. Enjoy it.

Day One

Café du Monde. Image by Lizzy Caston.

9am: Start your day in the French Quarter with beignets and a cup of chicory-laced café au lait by the river at Café du Monde.

10am: Stroll the Riverwalk then wander about Jackson Square, an 18-century military parade ground that is now a meeting place for street musicians, Voodoo queens, fortune tellers, artists, historians and tourists.

11am: Window shop along Royal Street and explore the many antique shops including quirky, culinary-centric Lucullus. Street buskers will provide a lively soundtrack.

Faulkner House Books. Image courtesy of the venue.

12:30pm: Lunch at Green Goddess to sample imaginative cocktailing and veggie-powered goodness, then browse the nearby Southern-specialist Faulkner House Books.

3pm: Work off a few calories with a bike tour of Creole New Orleans with Confederacy of Cruisers, an exploration of architecture and history in the Marigny and Treme neighborhoods.

5pm: Sundowners beckon in this city that claims to have invented the cocktail. Have a crafty tiki concoction at Cane & Table on Decatur.

7pm: Settle in for supper at Sylvain, where chef Martha

Frenchmen Street Art Market. Image by Lizzy Caston.

Wiggins creates sophisticated yet approachable fare, sourced locally and accented Southern.

10pm: Wander to Frenchmen Street and dip into the nighttime Frenchmen Art Market, a fab place to buy work by local artists. Afterwards, this four-block stretch in the Marigny is the best place to hear all kinds of live music into the wee hours.

Day Two

Commander’s Palace. Image via Flickr Creative Commons by ann-dabney.

10am: If it’s the weekend, take the Saint Charles Streetcar for jazz brunch at Commander’s Palace, a seminal New Orleans experience. Or, for a casual weekday brekkie, head to Ignatius Eatery on Magazine – shrimp and grits and a jambalaya omelet will set you up.

12pm: Head uptown along Magazine Street to check out vintage shops like Funky Monkey and Mayan Import Co.

2pm: Walk past Antebellum mansions to Saint Charles Avenue. Have a glass of wine at The Delachaise, then catch the streetcar uptown, a clickety-clack journey that lands you at leafy Audubon Park for a ramble.

Toups’ Meatery. Image courtesy of the venue.

4pm: Back along Saint Charles, heading towards Riverbend and charming Oak Street, have a pick-me-up cuppa at Maple Street Patisserie and be sure to stop by the shops, including Angelique, a boutique with a timeless sensibility.

6pm: Cab it to Mid-City’s Toups’ Meatery, a carnivore heaven from a Cajun chef schooled in French cuisine. Walk 10 minutes on Carrollton towards Orleans Avenue for authentic Italian gelato at the family-owned Angelo Bracato Gelateria & Pasticceria.

9pm: Take the number 90 bus or a tax to Rock ‘n’ Bowl for an evening of strikes and spares, as well as zydeco, blues or rootsy rock

Chickie Wah Wah. Image courtesy of the venue.

music, depending on the band.

11pm: For one more music experience and a nightcap, hail a cab and head to Chickie Wah Wah on Canal, an intimate locals’ haunt with a stellar roster of plugged and unplugged performances.

About The HUNT New Orleans Writer: Beth D’Addono is a food and travel writer who fell head over heels in love with New Orleans more than 20 years ago. Unable to resist the city’s magnetic pull, Beth moved from Philadelphia to New Orleans’s Marigny in 2012. A passionate supporter of the city’s vibrant food, music and arts culture, she spends her non-working hours riding her bike, listening to live music, walking her dog Ruby along the river and connected with the particular New Orleans brand of magical realism that greets her everytime she walks out of her front door. Nothing makes her happier than discovering and sharing all things Nola beyond the limited and overrated Bourbon Street, and working on assembling a respectable costume closet.

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